This short video, made by Juan Camilo Hernandez, briefly documents my trip to study Bullerengue music with master singer and percussionist Emilsen Pacheco in the small Colombian town of San Juan de Urabá. Specifically, the video captures the process of replacing a drumhead on the small llamador drum. I spent my days between the Tambor Alegre (drum) and the ocean. The learning process often felt like the push and pull of the undertow. What I thought I had mastered one day was often corrected the next. As soon as I made progress with a specific rhythm, I lost the feel. Emilsen, with his patient yet stern guidance, little by little cleared the path for learning this incredibly rich and beautifully complex genre of music. The three styles that comprise the Bullerengue tradition are, Sentado, Chalupa, and the Fandango de Lengua. This trip was funded by the Graduate Presser Grant from Indiana University.